By Erin Morris
It’s been dumping at Lake Tahoe ski resorts practically all winter.
White powder, the drug of choice for many, arrived in truck loads to the Tahoe region, especially in January and February. No, I’m not talking literal trucks coming from the south. Trucks in the form of storm fronts bringing that beautiful, white, fluffy, powdery snow to the mountains of Tahoe.
While there have been dangerous blizzard conditions, travel warnings and road closures, things have finally returned to somewhat normal winter conditions by March.
Let’s start with the real basics. As you might be asking, where is Tahoe? Lake Tahoe is sliced down the middle by the California/Nevada border, around 200 miles northeast of San Francisco and 37 miles southwest of Reno, depending on where in Tahoe you visit. It is the third deepest lake in the North America – 22 miles long by 12 miles wide. The average elevation is at lake level is 6200 feet (1900 m).
Since they are different, let’s break Lake Tahoe into two sectors – North Lake Tahoe and South Lake Tahoe.
South Lake Tahoe
Are you after more than just skiing and snowboarding on your holiday? Stay in Nevada’s Stateline in one of the four large casinos. You have concerts, shows, a plethora of bars, and of course gaming machines to keep you occupied. South Shore offers more variety in dining and shopping options. Being a larger area than the North Tahoe, you can find some great accommodation deals. The region backs onto the base of Heavenly Mountain ski resort, with their gondola easily accessible in the village. The other options for your days riding include Kirkwood and Sierra-At-Tahoe.
Heavenly Mountain: A Vail Resort, one of the cool things at Heavenly is you can check off skiing or snowboarding across a state border. Take a photo at the sign posted border on the mountain. Heavenly has extensive terrain for all abilities, which includes many fun, long groomers.
Kirkwood Mountain: Skiing here is as backcountry as you can get while still being inbounds. Think tree runs, rugged terrain and untracked turns. Do you want your runs black and strong like your coffee? Then Kirkwood, also part of the Vail Resorts empire, is for you. Strangely you can buy a three-day pass to Heavenly and you can also ski Kirkwood, but not the other way around.
Sierra-At-Tahoe: When trying to distinguish themselves in a sea of resorts, Sierra has taken on the class clown persona. They want to be the cool kids on the block. Here you’ll find lessons focused on having the most fun possible within a huge 11-acre beginner.
North Lake Tahoe
I am biased. I lived in Tahoe City when I was in Tahoe and I enjoyed everything about it. If you choose to stay in North Tahoe you will be in such areas as West Shore, Tahoe City, Kings Beach and Incline Village.
The historical town of Truckee is located along Interstate 80, 18 miles north of Tahoe City. This is where you’ll find a lot of the long-term locals living and less of the season goers. You’ll find it easy to get here whether travelling from the Bay Area or the Reno side. From here you are able to access Squaw/Alpine and Northstar, just as easily as from North Lake Tahoe. Plus a few other options, Sugar Bowl and the smaller Boreal, Tahoe Donner, and Donner Ski Ranch.
I love this area because it has such a small town, local vibe. While you may not experience this on a vacation, you will notice the smaller intimate bars, lack of chain restaurants and no big hotel chains. Instead, stay in a log cabin in the woods, befriend the local sitting next to you at the bar and support local businesses. If you stay on the West Shore or Tahoe City, the best places to ski are Squaw Valley/Alpine Meadows and Homewood. If you are in Kings Beach or Incline Village your closest resorts are Northstar, Mount Rose and Diamond Peak.
Squaw Valley Alpine Meadows: These two adjoining resorts are among the major players in the resort game. There is a shuttle between the two mountains and total skiable terrain covers over a whopping 6,000 acres. Ok, so obviously you could google these facts. Here’s my personal opinion.
If you want a huge variety of runs to choose from with access to lots of intermediate, advanced and expert terrain, go to Squaw/Alpine. However, the cons are those fresh tracks only last an hour if you don’t know the mountain to find the hidden ones.
I hope you’re ready to wake up before the crack of dawn on a powder day, that line for KT-22 will be around the Funitel before most people are having their first sip of coffee.
Squaw Kids is my No. 1 pick (cough, cough … That’s where I used to work), but really, they are amazing. Small class sizes and incredible, loving instructors.
Homewood Mountain: Homewood matches the small-town vibes that the North Lake area offers. Although small, you will never be bored. It’s the closest mountain to the Lake and it will appear you are skiing right into it. Stunning views and stunning ticket prices to match. You can ski here for under $50 a day! There’s also a high chance you’ll score some powder pockets later in the day.
Northstar California: Another of the major ski areas, Northstar is owned by Vail Resorts. So, if you have a pass to one of the many Vail resorts scattered around the world this may be your stop. Great beginner terrain which isn’t overly steep. You’ll also find lots of family-friendly activities and events at the base of the hill.
Mount Rose: I love this midsized ski resort and I’m sure you will too. This is the closest resort to Reno, so you have the option of finding some cheaper accommodations. However, the road is quite sketchy and I wouldn’t recommend it with lots of snow to inexperienced snow drivers. Lots of fun chutes for the more adventurous skiers and riders. Plus, beginner friendly terrain to drop off the family members holding you back.
Diamond Peak: Another small town-feel resort, similar to Homewood. Diamond Peak is not as suited to the absolute beginner with only one green run.
Ski here if you are an intermediate skier or snowboarder looking to increase the difficulty of your runs without the pressure of the hardcore riders rushing past you.
Sugar Bowl: Fun! That’s what you’ll be thinking all day when riding at Sugar Bowl. There is terrain suitable for all abilities with Christmas and Disney named runs and chairlifts. Isn’t it fun to say you rode down Donald Duck and Blitzen? For expert skiers, you have a face of palisades to really test your nerves.
Boreal Mountain: There’s no driving down sketchy long resort roads to reach Boreal. You’ll see the resort roadside as you’re driving along the I-80. Although Boreal is only a small resort, it packs a punch when it comes to the terrain park. If learning to ride or improve in the terrain park this is your resort.
You can also check out the Woodward indoor foam pit at the base of the hill to really fine-tune those park moves. And one more thing about Boreal – it’s open most nights until 9 p.m.
Tahoe Donner: Located within a homeowners society, Tahoe Donner has a small ski hill accessible to the public. There is a good mix of beginner to advanced runs, perfect to take the family for a half day of skiing. In the afternoon, why not explore the other public activities in the homeowner’s area.
Donner Ski Ranch: An intimate, friendly resort with access to long groomed beginner runs. Perfect if you want to take the little ones and ski with them for the day. The front side of the mountain is great to let the kids feel like they are skiing on their own while you’re secretly watching from the lodge below.
Granlibakken: For people who love history, the Granlibakken property off Highway 89 has an interesting past and is a cool place for families to plan a vacation year-round. It’s also a terrific location for conference gatherings.
A group of Norwegian skiers, including seven-time national champion Lars Haugen, was touring the west and giving ski jumping exhibitions. Haugen was paid to design a 60-meter ski jump at Olympic Hill (on the current Granlibakken property), which took two years and $10,000 to complete.
The Olympic Hill was the site of the U.S. Ski Championships in February 1932. However, it wasn’t until after World War II that a recreational ski resort was developed there and named Granlibakken.
Today, Granlibakken features one lift for skiing and snowboarding, and is a terrific place for beginners. Family fun, snow play, specifically sledding, is ideal at this historic recreation area.
Erin Morris worked as a ski instructor at Squaw Valley for three years while she lived in Tahoe City. Doing back-to-back winters between Australia and the United States, she managed to avoid the summer for seven years. While she does not reside in the Tahoe area and has returned home to Australia, she misses the place every day and cannot wait to return.
Visit Erin Morris’ website at http://curiouslyerin.com.
